Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Tapai Session with David Kitingan

I have been outstation a lot lately, due to the happenings and preparation of kaamatan (Harvest Festival) next month. so many events been happening, so many ideas in mind, so many photos to shoot and so much "Tapai" to taste ! I write for Breeze, Borneo Travel Blog as well as BEST Society. In my blog, i would love to write about something behind the scene, something i don't have to care so much if it is relevant, but something came from the back of my mind.
The most relaxing assignment i came across was having a session with David Kitingan. The Operator of the Tapai Factory Tambunan Village Recreational centre (TVRC). Knowing its a TAPAI ( rice wine) factory.. all my family members couldn't help but offer all sorts of assistance they can give. Juli ( my sister) offer to gather input so she can follow,Alut (my dad) couldn't be more happier then being my driver to Tambunan, you see.. this is how a kadazan gin in us.. as the saying in us " With Wine and Hope; Everything is Possible ! " ...LOL


"The wooden Tapai Factory, humbly located at the end of Tambunan Village Recreational Centre, we went in through the back door, and found David quietly reading newspaper in his Tapai kingdom. "


"David , preparing his humble table for our little Interview"



Well, i do not want to describe so much on the factory as you will be able to access various information about TVRC Tapai factory through google search, all i endure is my "Lihing" session and deep chat with David- a retired sergeant and currently an operator of this Tapai factory.


Me: " David, this Tapai jar looks old, are they still usable?"
David: " Yes, we custom ordered from Tuaran, ceramic factory, all of them are capital investment and all of them are kept for future use.

Me: " But they look so old.. so ermm.. "
David : " No before we use we have to boil them, soak them in a big stainless steel pot and boil them, this not only eliminate germs and it also helps to preserve the rice wine in order not to turn sour.. "

Me :" So, can you tell me a little about process of making Tapai?"
David : " Today we do not have production, its pretty simple. Rice grain is smashed in this smasher called "lesung padi" to separate the husk from the grain..the rice is put in the centre and smashed using the 'wooden smasher'..i don't know whether to call it smash or squeezed or what - or even if it is the correct word to use..but whatever it is ..the usage is almost like in the mortar used in labs the other almost-oval-shaped 'thing' is called the tampi...which is woven from thinned bamboo sticks..the function is to let the husk fall while retains the rice grain in it..the mechanism is simply by moving the 'sifter' up and down..preferably in windy condition.."

Me: " Hmm... too bad you don't have production today ( it was Sunday when i met him), i really would love to see some action in this factory.

David :" No.. no.. no.. no.. today i just want to drink, with your dad .. and you.. and we talk, we tell story.

Me: " OK... :) OK.. i like that..
"Tan Sri Joseph pairin Kitingan- Huguan Siu of kadazanDusun community in Sabah"


Me: " So, tell me.. you are the elder brother of our "Huguan Siu", Tan Sri Joseph Pairin Kitingan.. tell me more ..
David: " Yes i am.. i am the elder brother, but i don't like to be a public figure. This TVRC is founded by my other brother Jeffrey and i am in charge specifically on this wine factory." i tell you what.. take some of this Lihing.. and you try and see you can taste the different...

Me: " OK, OK.. ( i sipped on the Lihing ) .. wow.. it taste sweet and smooth.. i think its good to cook my favorite Chinese dish "The Drunken Chicken" , Do you have more? i want to buy...

David: " No Mel, i can't produce too much as the demand is not there, and this wine cannot be kept too long, it will turn sour and it will waste all my time and ingredient." Some one need to market, some one need to do a lot of publicity about this wine production. We are under utilize and we can produce up to 50 Tajau in a production. Just to bad the demand is not there, we have compete with the individual home maker.."

Me : " Well, i understand that, marketing alone is not enough, we need to also involve a lot of operational cost, maintenance, even inculcate the cultural element in this Rice wine making.. It has to be not just about the wine, it has to be about the culture, the visitors who endure the history and such veneration on the Rice Wine making.

David :" Yes.. exactly, come "aramaiti"... next two week Monday you can come, i have production.

Mel : " Production? oh.. how many people are working ? "

David :" Two, plus me.. three .."

Mel :" ohh ok, how does the job function goes....?"

David : " well... there are three of us.. 2 of my staffs will be complete the Tapai preparation untill the end. One time production we produce around 30-50 jar.. so .. my job is to taste them."



Mel : " To taste?! Wow, thats pretty interesting and cool job function.. by the end of the wine tasting, you are gone.. hahahaha"

David : " Yes, sometimes i have to make sure the rice is not over cook, its not too sour or its at the right temperature for fermentation; my tolerance is high.. it taste even better with the Guinness in it."

Mel: " Hahahah, obviously that not wine tasting already... thats Monginum :) !"

David :" Well, you know our culture, our people and our weaknesses... we can refuse, but we can resist." He said it with a calm smile. OK, ok, let's come to the back kitchen, i have some good old wine and Lihing.. thats my secret drinks.. only for you guys...

and so the day went dozing off with continuous pouring of wine...


"Dad, counting his Lihing... happily displaying on the table..."

The district kaamatan celebration in Kg.Teranaan, Tambunan is on the 21st and 28th May 2011.Do feel free to come visit the Tamu market and you will be served with various local native delicacies and cultural exposure...

2 comments:

Jess In Borneo said...

Owh this reminds me of my childhood days - where I was taught how to make tapai by my mother and grandmother. It's easy to do, as long as you abide the one rule - you must not habour ill feelings such as anger - especially during the process where you spread the yeast (sasad pahit manis) on the rice. My best memory was when people drank the rice wine that I made and it was - SWEET! Never done the rice wine again in my adult days, though by choice I certainly can - anytime. Happy Kaamatan 2011!

David Chin said...

Yes, I know how to make rice wine too. The secret is to keep all utensils and hands sterile (no germs).